My 9 Favourite Cleansers of All Time

My 9 Favourite Cleansers of All Time


Out of all the topics I have any familiarity with, face cleansing products may be the one I know the best – with the possible exceptions of the EU economic policy coordination process, iris perfumes and feminist science fiction. I’ve tried dozens of cleansers and with all that experience under my belt, I thought it’s time to attempt a best-of list. Obviously, this is a very personal and non-comprehensive overview. Despite spending what would get me a small apartment by now, I haven’t tried everything and even if I had, preferences differ. So as always, apply your own miraculous gift of critical thinking to everything I’m about to say.

1. Best all-rounder: Samuel Jordan After Show Treatment Cleanser. I can find no fault with this cleanser – I adore the jelly-balm texture; it is effective, but gentle; it rinses clean and works for both morning and evening, first and second cleanse. It is absolutely fairly priced and made by a lovely small brand, it even comes in a version for very sensitive skin. I haven’t seen anyone ever say anything bad about this product. The ONLY issue is that it needs to be ordered from the US, not the greatest option for everyone. The closest I’ve found in Europe is Origin’s Jelly cleanser and you could say Oskia’s Renessaince Gleansing Gel has a similar vibe (both are very nice).

2. Best balm: Drunk Elephant Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser. This is possibly slightly controversial – people might be expecting Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm or Eve Lom’s classic balm cleanser. And there are other balms I really like: Mahalo Unveil is beautiful and I think the new, lighter versions of both Emma Hardie and Eve Lom are rather excellent. But there is a reason Slaai has been so extensively hyped: it is a perfectly judged balm (not too oily, not too light, not too gritty, not too smooth), it has no irritants and it’s not as expensive as it could be. It can be used without a flannel and, crucially for the first cleanse, really gets everything off.

3. Best oil: de Mamiel Atmosphériques Pure Calm Cleansing Dew. I use oils a bit less these days, but if something can tempt me, it’s this beautiful oil by de Mamiel (whatever the names says, it’s an oil). I adore the smell and the texture is lightweight enough not to feel greasy. Most people would probably not use it as a first cleanse, as it’s so expensive and lovely, but in case you want to, it works. I fully realise it’s out of most people’s price range, as are the almost equally gorgeous Votary oils. For a more affordable option, I still think Caudalie can’t be beaten and it’s a mystery for me why this oil isn’t better known and more loved.

4. Best milk: Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2. While I never considered this cleansing milk as an overall winner (because it’s not amazing at removing heavy makeup, although it is very good), it’s probably the most convincing winner in its own category. This is literally the only cleansing milk I use and trust me, I was extremely skeptical before trying it. But it feels amazing to use and my skin seems healthier immediately after being exposed to this. It’s pricy, so never mind this if you are on the budget. If that isn’t a concern, then give it a go.

5. Best jelly: Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser. Another product I was extremely dubious about before trying it is this Glossier cult cleanser. And even after trying it, I wasn’t sure it was worth all the hype. One should, however, always observe what one actually uses: if I have it at home (it’s a pain to get hold of outside the US and the UK), I always gravitate towards it. I love its – yes, milky-jelly – texture, it never causes any issues, is effortless to use and doesn’t dry me out. My other jelly cleanser love is the Astalift version that I bought in Japan and sadly cannot find anywhere any longer.

6. Best purifying: Tata Harper Purifying Cleanser. Out of the stellar Tata Harper cleanser line-up, this is my favourite. I have found nothing that works quite like this to de-gunk my skin. Obviously, there are limits to what a cleanser can do, but after using this clay-enhanced potion, my skin always feels like its been exorcised of the congestion demons, brighter and fresher. While it’s often recommended for oily skin, I would not rule it out if you are dryer – Sali Hughes loves it and her skin is famously moistureless. The Sunday Riley Ceramic Slip used to be a great, somewhat cheaper alternative to this, but I haven’t tried the reformulation and cannot vouch for it.

7. Best exfoliating: Indie Lee Brightening Cleanser. This category was meant for gently exfoliating cleansers – not scrubs (be wary of scrubs!), but cleansers with a little bit of acid to get rid of old skin and brighten the complexion. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really think of a Holy Grail product in this field, although there are a few that I like – including Alpha-H Liquid Gold Resurfacing Cleansing Cream (with lactic and glycolic acids) and COSRX and The Inkey List for salicylic acid. There is one, however, that doesn’t really contain any acids as far as I can see, but has a similar effect – yes, it’s that Indie Lee cleanser. As a bonus, it has a gorgeous jelly texture and lovely smell – a perfect morning cleanse.

8. Best sensitive: Harborist Balm-Gel Cleanser. I am not the best judge of products for sensitive skin, as my own skin is rather hardy. I feel pretty confident recommending this lovely balm, however, as there is nothing in there that is commonly know to irritate and I know people with much more sensitive skin than mine who use this successfully. Although the texture is slightly gel-like, I would call this a balm cleanser – it is oily and rich and soothing. This is a great option if you don’t want to irritate your skin with a double cleanse, as it gets rid of makeup and SPF while being lovely to use. Everything about this product is nice, from the packaging to the philosophy of the small, conscious brand. For a budget option, CeraVe is adored by many.

9. Best budget: The Ordinary Squalene Cleanser. It took me a while to find a widely available budget cleanser that I truly love as much as my expensive ones and it was The Ordinary that finally did it. It is one of the most versatile cleansers I have – in functionality, it’s actually pretty close to Jordan Samuel – and it’s just so easy to use and travel with. On many days, I reach for this over my more luxurious and much more pricy products. I have a longer review of it here that I still stand by and meanwhile, they’ve come out with a larger size, although it’s not available everywhere.

What are your favourite cleansers? What should I try?

PS Indeed, not all of my favourites are pictured and Tata Harper Clarifying Cleanser is standing in for its Purifying sister: I don’t have all my faves in rotation at all times. I am going to order a new After Show cleanser any day now, though.

4 Comments

Add yours
  1. 1
    Cristina

    I am an ex foaming woman. I tried EH moringa balm but I was not impressed. But I tried an oil and I am a convert. I am using DHC oil, how does it compares with Caudalie’s? And another question, is the squalene cleanser a balm, foaming, milky? Thanks for sharing!

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      I like the Moringa balm, but cleansers are really a question of personal preference in terms of texture, smell, etc (once you have established that they do in fact manage to get your face clean). Personally, I find DHC too heavy, Caudalie is lighter and smells better🙂 And the Squalene Cleanser is difficult to describe, it’s a hybrid texture: a balmy, slightly jelly-like cream? And then it turns into oil on skin, although technically, squalene is not an oil.

  2. 3
    Gudrun

    Entertaining and informative post, thank you so much. I read this a day after I ordered the Indie Lee Cleanser you mentioned, now I’m even more excited. I’m very intrigued by Biologique Recherche Cleanser you mentioned. Where do you buy their products? I didn’t find them in among the usual online stores (niche beauty, Cult beauty etc.). Have you ever tried any of their facials? I’m in Paris again next month and I’m considering making an appointment. I’d love to hear your thoughts.

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      That Indie Lee cleanser is really lovely in my view, I hope you’ll enjoy it!

      The BR products are usually available only at salons, although Liberty’s carries them as well. I buy mine there or at Ilusaatkond in Estonia. I have had their facial once and it was very good, but not groundbreaking. I do like their products in general, the line-up is just a bit overwhelming.

+ Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.