5+5 Autumny Autumn Fragrances

5+5 Autumny Autumn Fragrances


I don’t believe in perfume seasons. As with anything else, I think people should find out what works for them and then do/wear whatever they like – be it dark leathers in summer or colognes in winter. So it’s with some embarrassment that I admit to wearing quite a few traditionally autumny scents this September. Then again, it gives me an opportunity to do an autumn favourites list, a genre of blog writing I’m very fond of. For your reading and sniffing pleasure, here’s my 2015 autumn perfume rotation, including both the old loves and new crushes.

CLASSICS
1. Chanel Cuir de Russie. It has become a tradition to start all my perfume lists with this one. It’s a proper, serious leather, but the Chanel polish and quality (and the floral notes) make it wearable for almost everyone. More gushing about this wonderful scent can be found here.
2. Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois. This is another “Best Of”, my favourite wood. Somehow, Feminite du Bois manages to be a statement scent and a comfort fragrance at the same time. I wear it when I want to be both gorgeous and cosy. It works regardless of the season, but with its plum and cedar notes, it is especially great in autumn.
3. Etat Libre d’Orange The Afternoon of a Faun. ELDO’s quiet masterpiece includes all the usual autumn suspects: wood, leather, resins, incense, fruit, but the result is a relatively understated perfume. I do like it for rainy summer days as well, as described in this post.
4. The Different Company Sel de Vetiver. For some people, this is a summer vetiver, because it’s light and cool and has a salty nuance. I can see that and wear it in summer, too, but in my head, it’s best suited for the empty beaches of Normandy in November.
5. Guerlain Shalimar. There’s nothing much to say, really. Vanilla and gasoline. Greatness.

UPDATES
1. Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom. Whatever the season, there’s always a place for something nice and uplifting and simply good-smelling in one’s repertoire. For this autumn, M&C is that scent for me: it’s very difficult to remain gloomy when you’re wrapped in golden mimosa and creamy cardamom.
2. Serge Lutens Boxeuses. When I crave a sweeter, more delicious leather than the perfectly perfect Cuir de Russie, I turn to Boxeuses. If you’ve tried Feminite du Bois, imagine its sister with leather and a generous dose of maple syrup added. Or is it plum jam?
3. Arquiste Nanban. If you want it all – leather, precious woods, spices, incense, plus possibly some rum and coffee, Nanban is a good one to try. There’s a lot going on, but I don’t find it hard to wear. However, you have to keep in mind that I very rarely find anything difficult to wear (and then wear it anyway). I also have a soft spot for Arquiste, as they make my favourite gardenia fragrance.
4. Une Nuit a Bali Mr Vetiver. I had never heard of this brand until I spotted their three fragrances at Senteurs d’Ailleurs. This is a spicy, warm vetiver, a counterpoint to the cool, salty Sel de Vetiver. In addition to the title ingredient, I mostly smell cardamom in this one and sometimes, that’s all I need.
5. Thierry Mugler Womanity. I have just realized that with the exception of Shalimar and possibly Jo Malone, these scents are all pretty difficult to find (and expensive). So I’ve kept the last spot for a mainstream fragrance, although in my opinion, this one smells more niche than many niche offerings. The description says figs and caviar, which in reality translates into slightly salty figs. If this sounds too unusual, there are always Angel and A*Men and their myriad flankers – also great for autumn, if you can handle them.

6 Comments

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  1. 1
    Avonne

    Thank you, I really enjoy this type of list……so many new suggestions. I thought I was celebrating the first day of fall this morning with cardamom and orange peel in my cafe au lait, and my favorite leather, Luten’s Daim Blond. Oops! I see the autumnal equinox is Wednesday the 23rd. I’ ll just have to celebrate again, maybe this time with Samsara. I have an older bottle, and one careful spritz is plenty for a day of sandalwood yuminess. Thanks for sharing your cardamom and rose water in coffee idea, I have enjoyed it many times. Was out of the RW today, so added a little extra cardamom and some orange zest…and like this too.

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      I’m so glad you’re enjoying the rose coffee and its variants. Daim Blond is a great companion to it – I like all Lutens leathers, the exotic Cuir Mauresque as well. And you have made me crave Samsara, which is quite an achievement, as it’s not a fragrance I know well. Do you find the current version very different from your bottle?

  2. 3
    Holly

    Great list! I usually don’t match fragrance to seasons either, but I’ve discovered that during this weird transitional weather we’re having in my part of the world, nothing seems quite right. I’ve been commando for a few weeks! This is unprecedented!

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      This is indeed pretty long – I do have days when I don’t wear anything, but I don’t remember the last time I had more than three in a row. What’s the weather like?

  3. 5
    Pavlina

    Very nice list!!! Thank you! I’m interested in a Arquiste fragrance. Which else have you recommended except Nanban as interesting? And a which rich white flower scent for winter do you like? Pavlina

    • 6
      Ykkinna

      Thank you, Pavlina! From Arquiste, I absolutely love Boutonniere No 7, a beautiful and unique gardenia scent. Flor y Canto is a lovely tuberose, although probably too expensive for what it is. Anima Dulcis is probably the most interesting, a very creative take on chocolate, but that one isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Net-a-Porter has their travel sets (at least they had the floral one recently, I’ve just bought it) that are great for more serious testing.

      Talking about white florals for winter, I think Carnal Flower works very well. And Diptyque has just launched a jasmine in the Essences Insensees series that is quite dark and jammy, would be great for the colder months. If you can do lilies, then Tom Ford’s gently spicy Shanghai Lily could be an option, too.

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