The Brightening Project: Are We There Yet?

The Brightening Project: Are We There Yet?


About four weeks ago, I told you about my issues with hyper-pigmentation and mentioned some products I planned to try. I also promised an update once I have my routine figured out and that’s what this post is about. For me, using the same products day in, day out is very difficult, so I still rotate some of them: mostly cleansers, but sometimes also acids and moisturisers and other things.

The bright (hah!) side is that being disciplined seems to be working. The discoloured areas on my forehead and cheeks are definitely less visible. About a week ago, I left the house without any foundation on – something I refused to do right after the holidays, when the damage was the worst. I assume some of the improvement is simply down to time and fading, but I’m quite convinced I would not have seen such progress in less than a month without a targeted skincare regimen (and diligent SPF use!).

As always, when you introduce several new products to your routine, it’s difficult to say what exactly is making the difference. That said, I’ve also used all the heavy hitters on my list alone at least once and I started them at slightly different times. Based on my observations, overall results and ‘female intuition’*, I’m inclined to think that these are all effective products. Possibly even more noteworthy than the fading of the sunspots is the fact that I managed to go through my cycle this month without any breakouts – I cannot remember the last time this happened. And believe me, my eating and sleeping habits have not improved.

In a way, I think it’s not that important what the exact products are that I’m using, it’s more about focusing on my main concern and being consistent. Obviously, the products need to be good quality, but you could use a different retinol and different brightening serum, as long as you use them every night and day. Please keep in mind, however, that I have very, very rarely any problems with retinol products or strong acids. If you are more sensitive, you may need to be more careful.

These are the products I’ve been using:

MORNING
1. Cleanser: Zelens Z Pure Cleansing Liquid Balm. Cleansers change, but I use this one often in the mornings – it’s very nice, with a lovely texture, but too expensive for what it is.
2. Acid toner: Radical Age-Defying Exfoliating Pads. Excellent pads, rivaling my all-time-favourite Zelens ones.
3. Essence: SK-II Facial Treatment Essence. I use this basically as an amped-up toner. If you are a disciple of Caroline Hirons – this is what I do in the spritz phase.
4. Serum: Oskia Renaissance Brightlight. One reason I use the essence is that it makes this serum less tacky, I apply it when the face is still damp. Otherwise, great ingredients, no complaints.
5. Eye cream: Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Eye Cream. Officially my favourite eye cream. Results.
6. Moisturiser: Kate Somerville Nourish or SK-II R.N.A. Power. I don’t like this Kate Somerville cream as much as I thought I would. It’s a perfectly good product, but it’s not love (partly because of the smell). I have therefore been using my SK-II mini quite a lot, too.
7. SPF: Eve Lom Daily Protection SPF 50. If there’s one good thing that came out of my sun spot saga, it’s that I’ve become really good at using sunscreen. Most days it’s this one.

EVENING
1. First cleanse: Caudalie Make-Up Remover Cleansing Oil. Great product, still love it.
2. Second cleanse: Kate Somerville Goat Milk Cleanser. This one is my new love, probably my favourite cleanser at the moment – a soft, gentle, effective (it works as a first cleanse, too) balm in a tube. It has a very sweet smell, but weirdly, I love even that.
3. Acid toner: Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel. These are supposed to be used as a treatment, once or twice a week, but I used them almost nightly with great results and no ill effects. Well, with the unfortunate effect that now I’m out of them. I’ve ordered the serum.
4. Serum: Dr Brandt Overnight Resurfacing Serum. This is empty now (I had used some of it earlier already, although not consistently) and I’ve been very happy with it. But not happy enough to stop me from trying something else (see above). I have been using Ren Bio Retinoid Anti-Wrinkle Concentrate Oil in the mean time and like this, too.
5. Eye cream: Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Eye Cream. The only product that features on both morning and evening lists. Enough said. Have ordered another one.
6. Moisturiser: Sunday Riley Tidal Brightening Enzyme Water Cream. Very nice, this. It’s like those trendy Asian water creams, but with some added action.

To answer the question in the title, I’m not quite there yet, but I’m a happy traveller at the moment. I will make some changes to my routine – mostly because I’ve run out of product – and come back for another update. If you’d like to hear more about any of the products mentioned above, let me know. Things can be arranged.

*I’m being sarcastic. I hate that phrase.

Evening routine

12 Comments

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  1. 1
    Holly

    Yay for getting there!

    I’ve added the Oska to my almost- six -months -now NIOD routine and it seems to be working a tad, or I’m delusional which would also be just fine. I bought some sunscreen samples (Josh Rosebrook and Suntegrity) to test but then realized that I do not want anything moist nor dewy when I’m sweating outside. Oh dear! So, perhaps the Bioderma Hydrobio mist I’m about to buy will help, or the hunt for the *one* will continue.

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      Do you have access to any Asian sunscreens? The ones I’ve tried (not many) have been very thin and matte. Which reminds me that I have the Tatcha sample somewhere – many people like this one and their products are usually very nice. I have already bought the Hydrabio spray, but not used it yet.

      • 3
        Holly

        Oh yes, I can get everything here. I think part of the issue is that I didn’t take into account the switch from a winter regimen to a summer one. I picked the two sunscreens I mentioned after reading reviews, but honestly once you’re sweating bullets I think it’s all destined to go to hell in a handbasket. 🙂

  2. 4
    love_to_sniff

    I’m careful with sun, especially since I moved to Japan, so I’ve never had issues with hyper-pigmentation. Until this spring. I got freckles (they don’t add me any charm at all) which were fusing into ugly spots. 2 weeks ago I started to use Shiseido Elixir White Reset Brightenist and I can already say it works. I might get other products from same series.

    • 5
      Ykkinna

      It makes sense that Japanese brands would do brightening really well. I did consider Shiseido, but I think not all their products are available here and ultimately I just went with things/brands that seemed more exciting. Good to know the elixir works, though. Thanks!

  3. 6
    Frances

    I’m glad to hear your consistent regime is working. That’s super, and thank you for reporting back. It’s really interesting to know that external applications can have this positive effect. !My regime, on the other hand, has not cleared any hyper-pigmentation, so I think I’ll be taking myself off for IPL treatment sometime soon. However, I do think the regular use of AHAs and BHAs has improved my overall skin texture, which I take to be a reasonable payoff.

    • 7
      Ykkinna

      I was also considering IPL in the autumn, but at the moment I think I won’t need it. Let’s see, maybe I have reached a plateau. I’m no expert, but I think the effecctiveness of lotions and potions depends on several factors. In my case, the damage was relatively contained (although I myself was horriefied) and recent.

      Glad to hear that at least the texture of your skin has improved. Good luck with whatever treatment you’re end up having!

  4. 8
    SophieC

    Thanks for the update and good to hear you are happy camper. I am a definite fan of the Radical pads, and haven’t tried most of the other products you mention but used SKII faithfully for a few years. Having olive-ish skin I seem to avoid too much pigmentation but do have to be careful with breakouts and also oddly being quite dehydrated at times.

    I must say I remain a great advocate of the Caudalie cleansing oil since your introduction, and having run out seem to have had a few annoying little spots appear. Have just ordered more. Have you tried the Eve Lom morning time cleaner? I don’t get on with the evening one as it seems too rich, but the morning one is similar but different enough not to cause me problems, at least not so far, and feels oddly refreshing, Worth bearing in mind at any rate.

    On another topic (sort of) I’d be really interested in a post on body creams/lotions and/or oils as I always try new ones and am always interested to hear what others have found.

    • 9
      Ykkinna

      I really like the Radical pads, I think I need to repurchase right away – something I don’t often do. My Dennis Gross serum has just arrived, so will be testing that too. My hopes are high!

      I’ve also bought a new bottle of Caudalie oil and some other cleansers as well. I plan to do an overview post soon, just to get the info out there. I haven’t tried the Morning Time Cleanser – I do actually like the evening balm, but haven’t bought one in a while, as there are so many lovely balms around.

      Something body related is in the works as well, although I have to admit that this is not my strongest category. What are your favourite body products?

  5. 10
    Linda Auguste

    Thanks! Love your posts – both on books and all things beauty(ful)! 🙂 Regarding this particular post (we are threading in the same footsteps or almost) I just want to say that I am amazed how many very active products you are able to use at once. For me it would be one active product at a time – either acids of retinoids. No question of “getting used to”, I’m an “old soldier”. But to each one’s own thing. Cheers! Enjoy the Summer!

    • 11
      Ykkinna

      Thank you for stopping by and for such a lovely comment! And yes, my skin seems to tolerate quite a bit. I’m currently using Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic+Retinol peel and serum after each other plus Sunday Riley Tidal on top with no apparent ill effects. No dryness, no sensitivity, no beakouts. I’ve had a chemical peel at a salon once and the aesthetician said that while my skin looks delicate, it’s actually thick and resilient and she could have used a stronger acid.

      I try to include a disclaimer to that effect every time, because I have realised that not everybody’s skin is as stoic as mine. But the positive side is that if my thick skin benefits from something, the chances are that the effect on other people will be even greater.

      • 12
        Linda Auguste

        Ohhh, you’re one strong lady! 🙂 Anyway, thank you for your post – always quality info and good mood effect guaranteed. As mentors go, C. Hirons is fantastic (love her!), but lately I am really pricking my ear to what Dr Sam Bunting says – her advice is more atuned to less tolerant folks 🙂 Aitah!

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