Conventional perfume wisdom has it that winter is the time for rich orientals and cuddly gourmands. I’m nor arguing, it does make sense: the typical representatives of these genres might be too much in the heat, but feel lovely and comforting when it’s cold. Still, would I stop wearing white florals or colognes simply because the season has changed? No. Snow makes tuberose smell classier than usual and Cristalle works beautifully for a crisp January morning, to give just two examples.

I’ll keep wearing my iris favourites throughout the winter, too, especially when I want to feel calm and in control or elegant and refined. I have found a new iris love, however, that I think is particularly well suited for late autumn and winter – Iris Cendre by the Australian accessories and fragrance brand Naomi Goodsir. It’s a tightly edited, intelligent and original line: I like their Bois d’Ascese a lot, so wasn’t at all surprised to fall for the latest launch.

Iris is a very distinctive, but versatile note: it can be green (Chanel No 19), powdery (Frederic Malle Iris Poudre), rooty (Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist) or floral (Aqua di Parma Iris Nobile). Iris Cendre manages to be all these things. It’s clearly an iris fragrance throughout its entire development, but while it starts out green and smoky, it later turns damp and rooty before becoming warmer, more powdery and floral.

I have tried many iris fragrances, but have never come across one that combines iris with smoke (incense, yes, but not smoke). I enjoy that contrast very much and it’s also this aspect that makes it extra good for winter. It’s not a heavy smoke (for some hard-core campfire action, try Bois d’Ascese), more like delicate tendrils and the soft, grey ash that gives the fragrance its name. Most smoky fragrances tend to be rich and dense, but Iris Cendre never goes there – it’s light and transparent, especially in the beginning.

As a big fan of Chanel irises, it’s probably not surprising that I find Iris Cendre’s sensibility similar, although less classical than Chanel’s. There’s an elegance and refinement to the composition, also echoed in the tasteful design of the bottle. It suits a contemplative mood (it was perfect for this shoot), but also the office – especially as the sillage seems to be less severe than smelling the perfume up close on your wrist. The only fault I can find with the fragrance is that the lasting power isn’t particularly good. Then again, La Pausa has no lasting power to speak of, so it seems unfair to hold it against Iris Cendre.

I bought my bottle from Creme de la Creme in Tallinn, in Brussels it’s available at Kroonen & Brown (this is for your convenience only, no affiliation).