London Skincare Haul

London Skincare Haul


I feel a bit uneasy about hauls – I’m absolutely fine with others writing and talking about the stuff they’ve bought, but not so sure I want to go there myself. It can feel like an orgy of consumption with little added value and I don’t want to be reminded that I’m a shallow human being who feels a disturbing sense of satisfaction when sitting on a bed surrounded by piles of freshly bought skincare.

I am, however, not known for the coherence and consistency of my beliefs, so here’s my London skincare haul. I decided to do it for three reasons: 1) people seem to be genuinely interested and this gives them an opportunity to see what I got and ask questions about specific products; 2) the things I bought nicely illustrate my current obsession with things that are proven to work: retinol, vitamin C and SPF; 3) it WAS an orgy of consumption, but one based on a lot of research and so far, I’m pleased with my purchases.

Everything I bought is listed below and where possible, I’ve added my first impressions. Please keep in mind, as always, that my skin is not sensitive and can tolerate a remarkable amount of active ingredients. Also, as my skincare routine is pretty charged already, it takes a lot for me to see an immediate difference when using something new. If this here seems wayyy too complicated and fussy for you, I suggest you take a look at my skincare advice for non-obsessed people and recently launched mainstream products I like.

1. SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3. SkinCeuticals is a very research and results oriented skincare brand from the USA and difficult to get in Europe. This is a shame, as I’ve only heard good things about it. The plan was to buy the much more potent Retinol 1.0, but apparently it can no longer be sold over the counter in the UK. So I ended up with 0.3, as recently featured by Caroline Hirons (I highly recommend you watch her retinol video). This is causing me no issues whatsoever and based on 3-4 days of use looks to be working well.

2. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF. Another replacement purchase: I planned to get CE Ferulic, their cult vitamin C day serum, but it was sold out. The trustworthy-sounding SA recommended this instead, saying that it might give even better results. This has vitamin C, ferulic acid and phloretin. I don’t know much of the latter, but other two are great ingredients. It’s really too early to say anything about this, but my skin looks good.

3. SkinCeuticals Retexturising Activator. This is an exfoliating and hydrating serum and supposed to be the equivalent of a 20% glycolic acid peel. I bought it for those nights when I don’t want to use retinol. Have used once and it seemed to do a good job, no irritation.

4. SkinCeuticals Brightening UV Defense SPF 30. SkinCeuticals sunscreens are legendary and I can see why. This is great – no greasiness, no white cast, just nice to wear.

5. NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 1%. NIOD is one of the most innovative skincare brands around (the parent company DECIEM has a host of interesting brands, including Hylamide) and CAIS is their hero product. It focuses on skin health rather than specific concerns and as every skincare nerd knows, you are not supposed to see instant results. So I cannot tell you whether it works, but I have been using it diligently morning and evening. As an introduction to NIOD, I recommend this post by Caroline Hirons – comments are the most interesting part, as Deciem’s founder shows up and responds to questions personally. NIOD’s web site has a wealth of information about every product as well.

6. NIOD Flavanone Mud. This is a clay mask that NIOD claims does much more than an ordinary clay mask. I don’t know about that, but it sure does purify the skin beautifully. I can also confirm that – as the web site says – you really can use a very thin layer of this, it spreads beautifully unlike any other clay mask I’ve seen. Another thing the brand is correct about is stinging: I almost never experience it, but I did with this mask. Detail Oriented Beauty has a great (and very enthusiastic) overview of all the more recent NIOD products.

7. NIOD Sanskrit Saponins. I usually don’t care much for products inspired by ‘ancient traditions’, but if they work, I don’t mind if they are inspired by Genghis Khan himself. Sanskrit Saponins is an ayurvedic cleanser that has a mousse-like texture and somewhat unusual smell. It doesn’t remove make-up, so makes sense only as a second cleanse in the evening or as a morning cleanse. I’ve used it a couple of times and I’m impressed: it is especially great if your skin feels congested and the pores clogged.

8. Biologique Recherché Lotion P50W. Another absolute cult product and another one that’s difficult to get (I bought mine at Liberty). It’s one of the strongest and most effective acid toners around. I kind of thought I’d get the original P50, but the SA somehow convinced me to get P50W that is supposed to be less irritating. I should have remained firm, but no matter, this has been great so far. And I get a tingle from this, so clearly there is quite a bit of oomph.

9. Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant. Not as well known as P50, this is a very respected product in the exclusive circles of the skin-obsessed. I’ve used it once and it is a very effective purifying-brightening mask. What you need to know, though, is that is smells absolutely vile (it’s the yeast). I’m not exaggerating, it’s awful. Win some, lose some.

10. NeoStrata Smooth Surface Daily Peel Pads. I found these – surprise! – thanks to Caroline Hirons. NeoStrata is a professional brand and as you would expect, the pads are pretty strong. I’ve used them twice and they’ve felt effective. I bought NeoStrata and the SkinCeuticals stuff at the Wigmore Medical Pharmacy – a highly recommended destination for people serious about their skincare.

11. ZO Skin Health Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30. The final bit from Wigmore Pharmacy, I would never have known to buy this without @violetnat from Instagram who is a source of excellent beauty advice. The SA told me this is the best SPF in the building and I have used it most days since I bought it. It is very, very good. It has a slight tint and matte finish, but not what I call dead-matte. I have no makeup but this on my face today and I’m OK.

12. Liz Earle Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser. I don’t need another cleanser, but I’ve wanted to own this for what, 6-7 years? When I first heard of hot cloth cleansing from Sali Hughes, this is what she used. So for me, it’s a piece of skincare history. It’s a good cleanser, too: if you like the Aurelia Miracle Cleanser or MV Organic Skincare cream cleanser, this is a great cheaper alternative.

13. Soap & Glory Ultimelt Hot Cloth Cleanser. Well, as I said, I don’t need new cleansers. Remember that? But I had heard good things about Ultimelt, I love the packaging and it’s reasonably priced. As it turns out, this is a cheaper alternative to Liz Earle – creamy, herby and effective. Gets rid of makeup. Lovely stuff.

I’m thinking maybe I should have done this in two instalments…

13 Comments

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  1. 1
    Violetnat

    Weeeee!!! Finally! What a great choice of products! (Is it a bit weird that I got excited about this more than if I have shopped myself? Talk about the disturbing sense of satisfaction… ?). Really interested about the NIOD cleanser… Goes straight on my list. I’m so glad that you made it to Wigmore Medical. AND that you like the SPF primer. I’m genuinely obsessed with it. ??

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      I also get excited by others buying things or buying things for others. I think it’s a way to get that skincare kick without getting any new stuff yourself. Often it’s not even about the money, but the fact that you really don’t need anything, and then you can live vicariously through others 🙂

      Wigmore was great and such a good location, too – will definitely visit again! Now I just need to figure out how to get my hands on some stronger retinol. And I hope you’ll like the SS cleanser – I think it does geat things to pores.

  2. 3
    Holly

    Nice haul, and your skincare posts are definitely helpful as I can continue to be as lazy as possible and let you do all the work. 😉
    I think that once you’ve got the basics down, it can be difficult to know whether or not something is actually effective. I use the Skinceuticals C,E,Ferrulic but also alternate with NIOD’s ELAN. CAIS I’ve been using since last December (plus a bunch of NIOD stuff), and it’s simply a matter of blind trust with all of these. (Will! not! think! about that statement.) I really like Sanksrit Saponinis and love the Flavanone Mud.
    After watching CH’s video about retinols, I have decided to just go to the freakin’ dermatologist. Although, of course, now the Skinceuticals 1.0 has taken up residence in my brain. Plus some of the other things you’ve mentioned …

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      I’ve also been thinking about getting a prescription retinol, but as I’ve never used a seriously strong over the counter one, I’m thinking I should do that first. If I can get hold of some! My skin still looks relatively OK, so I can wait a bit.

      Regarding blind trust: it’s all true what you are saying, often it’s very difficult to tell if and what exactly is working. But I also believe that sometimes what we think is blind faith is actually a gut feeling and as Kahneman tells us, gut feeling is in fact condensed experience. If you are used to observing your skin and pay attention to things you use, I believe there is usually a reason why you reach for something – even if the reason is difficult to explain. Or maybe that’s just wishful thinking.

      • 5
        Holly

        I can always send you the Skinceuticals, and would be happy to do so.

        You’ve certainly elevated the conversation by introducing Kahneman into it! I AM often in the position of not being able to explain myself, so I will need to avail myself of some direct quotes that I will certainly be able to utilize in future predicaments that will doubtless continue to occur with alarming frequency. Thank you. 🙂

  3. 6
    SophieC

    Thank you for this- I think I am going to take the plunge with at least some of these as it would be interesting to give them a go consistently for a while and see the results. Will let you know how it goes and on a different note I know what you mean about sometimes wondering why one had bought certain things but generally I find if they are something you specifically wanted/have a purpose for that feeling wanes pretty quickly. You can also view it as in the interests if research if at all helpful.

    • 7
      Ykkinna

      I think the Wigmore Medical Pharmacy might well be worth a visit for you. They carry lots of those more medical lines that often give better results than the big brands in pretty packaging. In addition to the ones I mentioned, there’s Medik8, favoured by Dr Sam Bunting.

  4. 8
    Tiamaria

    Thanks for a lovely post. I do love a haul post! I got SS and CAIS from Deciem and am impressed so far. The SS leaves my face squeaky clean but not dry and I even like the weird coffee smell. The biggest factor in the condition of my skin is diet, I rarely eat sugar or wheat now and never fizzy drinks, just one scoop of ice cream and the next day my chin will have at least two big spots. Last weekend however, having been using these products for a few days, I ended up in Mc Donnells two days in a row, eating a burger, fries, coke and ice cream both times and my skin remained blemish free. That is remarkable for me so I’m sticking with them for a while.

    • 9
      Ykkinna

      This sounds wonderful and I certainly agree with you on the cleanser. CAIS is a bit more difficult to judge, but I’m sticking with it, too. I don’t pretend to understand all the science, but the way this brand is presented does inspire confidence. So let’s see how it goes.

      And I’m in awe of your discipline when it comes to sugar and wheat. I’m sort of trying to reduce my sugar intake, too, but find it very difficult.

  5. 10
    Lynley

    Hi Anniky, I thought I’d give you a heads-up as I’ve also recently bought some Skinceuticals retinoid, Adore beauty in Australia sell the 1.0 and ship to Belgium. Not affiliated, just helping a girl out 😉

  6. 12
    Lynley

    I’ve started on the .5 before graduating to the 1.0, and I’ve changed my whole routine to Caroline-recommended over the past few weeks. I had read a couple of her reviews but never really immersed myself in them but as you’ve, you know, mentioned her in passing a couple of times 😉 I took your cue (as you and I have quite similar tastes) and dived right in. What an amazing difference! I’ve completely changed my whole routine and added things like hydraluron and hylamide serums and my skin is, what I presume, what it’s meant to be like but better. So I’m not sure which individual things are magic yet but I’ll get back to you 🙂
    Thanks for this post though. I get excited about lists and more so about lists of products!

    • 13
      Ykkinna

      I really do think she’s a great inspiration, especially for people no longer 19. I was already moving in the same direction with my skincare when I found her and for me the most useful thing is that she gives you the basic structure of the routine. You might omit some steps or do some things differently, but you’ll have a solid foundation. I very much agree that when you have a sound routine, it’s difficult to say what’s actually working, but then again – if you select your products carefully and do your research, chances are that they’re all working. I’m pretty certain that it’s more important to have a proper routine and stick with it, than have that one miracle product.

      I’m very glad it’s working out for you and if you have any further insights reagarding the retinols, let me know!

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