I went on a tropical holiday recently and have the sun damage to prove it. And no, I don’t mean a few freckles here and there that I’m getting overexcited about, I mean proper darker blotches mostly on my forehead and a bit on my cheeks. I’ve never freaked out over wrinkles, but this uneven skin business I do not like. Unless I’m wearing full coverage foundation, my face looks sort of dirty, and this needs to be addressed.

So I’ve done a bit of research and bought some products that I hope will help. Admittedly, I’ve already used some first rate brightening products in recent months and years: Sunday Riley Good Genes, Zelens Z Luminous serum and PHA pads come to mind. As some of you are aware, I apply mild acids every morning and evening and a stronger acid once or twice a week. But I knew that I needed something new and shiny to motivate myself to really stick with a routine.

I usually rotate my products quite a bit, but the plan is now to focus on my fight against dark spots. I will still use different cleansers and moisturizers, but will step up my acids (see below) and use retinol in the evenings and a targeted brightening serum in the mornings. What I have lined up so far:

1. Radical Age-Defying Exfoliating Pads. These are among the stronger acid pads out there, hailed by Caroline Hirons and ordinary users alike. There’s quite a cocktail of acids – glycolic, salicylic, AHAs, BHAs, so even I felt a light tingle. The jar is pricy, but includes more product than other similar offerings (60 vs 30 pads). Still pricy, though. I’ve used them twice and I’m already a fan.

2. Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel. These are a new launch from Dennis Gross and while also pads, they are somewhat different: in addition to acids (ferulic and a bit of mandelic and others) these contain retinol. If you thought Radical pads were pricy, these are in a different league altogether – 88 dollars for 16 uses, and it’s worse in Europe. But these qualify as a treatment rather than an everyday exfoliator, so I pretend that’s fine*. I also considered the fact that the eye cream from the same series is probably my favourite eye cream ever. I’ve used the peel once and first impressions are good.

3. Dr Brandt Glow Overnight Resurfacing Serum. I have in fact already used this for two weeks almost every night and I’m pretty sure I can see a difference in my skin. Or maybe I’m just getting used to my dark patches. Or getting delusional. This is a retinol product and while I don’t see it mentioned as often as some others, I’m happy so far. Nice texture, no adverse reactions and giving results (I think).

4. Ren Bio Retinoid Anti-Wrinke Concentrate. In case I run out of Dr Brandt or just feel unable of using one serum for several weeks, I also bought Ren’s retinol oil. There is some debate out there whether the name is misleading and if it really does contain retinol-analogues, but I chose to ignore it. The almost universally loved Sunday Riley Luna did not work for me, but Ren products usually do. Also, Sali Hughes said it’s as good as Luna. It’s also the only product in this line-up that is not very expensive, just expenive.

5. Oskia Renaissance Brightlight. I’ve just finished my Z Luminous serum by Zelens and it’s great, but I wanted to try something else. Several Instagram users whose opinion I trust recommended this as THE serum to try. It’s also said to be an ‘intensive pigmentation and dark spot serum’ – yes, thank you very much. And the ingredient list is very impressive, so here we are.

6. Rodial Glamoxy Snake Mask. This is a somewhat random addition, although it does claim to have brightening properties. I was inclined to get the new GlamGlow brightening mask (the orange one), but Instagram said no. So got this instead, as it was recommended by the beautiful @violetnat. I used it yesterday evening and although tricky to apply (it’s a black peel-off mask in the spirit of the 90s), it left my skin super smooth and almost poreless.

In addition to the above, I will of course also wear sunscreen religiously every day – currently, it’s by Eve Lom.

There are a couple of other things I’m interested in: Sunday Riley Tidal Brightening Enzyme Water Cream** will hopefully be mine in two weeks or so and I plan to purchase Zelens A and C vitamin drops once the packaging issue is sorted (the dropper bottles have a tendency to unscrew themselves). And then there’s that Dennis Gross serum…

I will report back when I have the routine figured out and settled and results – hopefully – becoming visible. I did think of before and after pictures, but gave up on the idea – not out of vanity, the situation is not THAT bad (or maybe I’m not THAT vain), but I’ll never be able to recreate the same lighting situation, etc, to make the photos really comparable. So I’m afraid you’ll just have to trust me.

*I did in fact desperately want the new matching night serum, but it was sold out when I placed my order.
**I should have held my horses, as Tidal unexpectedly arrived a couple of hours after I published this post, as did Drunk Elephant Framboos serum, another one that should help with brightening. But as I said, an update is in the works in any case.