5 Big White Floral Perfumes (and 5 smaller ones)

5 Big White Floral Perfumes (and 5 smaller ones)


The Big White Florals, or BWFs, have a reputation. This isn’t entirely surprising, as BWFs are very big and very … floral. If you’ve ever felt suffocated by someone’s perfume, chances are that a big and white floral was involved.

At the same time, this genre includes some of the most beautiful fragrances ever composed. If you want to feel fabulous, white flowers are definitely worth looking into. Predictably, I’m a big fan and I’ve collected some of my favourites below, sorted by the dominant note. I must stress that this is absolutely not an exhaustive list: I’m missing several important flowers in this group (tiare, ylang-ylang, magnolia, etc) and I couldn’t include even a fraction of my favourites without turning this into a monster post.

My choices will not surprise any seasoned perfumistas, but I know that not all readers here have a 50+ bottle collection. Keeping this in mind, I’ve also included a more wearable version of every note, for those who want to explore the genre without upsetting family members and pets.

1. Tuberose
Of all the big white flowers, I’d say tuberose is the biggest, although jasmine offers some stiff competition. It’s intense, voluptuous, creamy, slightly fruity and a bit green all at the same time. Frederic Malle calls his version Carnal Flower, although ironically, I find his take on the flower quite virtuous. Of all the excellent tuberoses out there, my first love is the classic Fracas by Robert Piguet. It’s too much for most people, but I don’t find it diva-ish, I just find it stunning. For a more user-friendly take on tuberose, my pick is Estée Lauder’s Tuberose Gardenia. It is a very beautiful, sunny floral that I find pretty easy-going, but still with enough personality. Every time I smell it I wonder why I don’t own a bottle.

2. Jasmine

Jasmine is one of the most popular notes in perfumery and it makes perfect sense. It doesn’t only have a striking scent, it’s also very versatile; from a full on indolic, over-ripe blast to sweet and pretty, jasmine can do it all. It also plays so nicely with others that it is present in very many perfumes where you wouldn’t suspect to have it at all. For a serious jasmine hit, I don’t think there’s anything better than A la Nuit from Serge Lutens. Even if you cannot wear it, do smell it, for enjoyment and reference. For a more accessible jasmine, By Kilian Love and Tears drops the indoles, but keeps the beauty. It’s radiant and lovely and I have met very few people who don’t like it. The only unfortunate thing about this scent is that it’s more pricey than the Lutens.

Alanuit

3. Gardenia

Gardenia is a bit of a speciality of mine – it’s one of my favourite notes and I believe I have sampled most of the well-known gardenias out there. The spot for the Big Gardenia to End All Other Gardenias does in fact belong to Tom Ford’s Velvet Gardenia, the most life-like and pungent of them all. I usually don’t think about perfume in terms of sexiness, but this one is extremely sensual and a bit bad. It is, also, discontinued, and I will never forgive Tom (unless he brings it back, of course, then we are totally best friends again). So in the absence of Velvet Gardenia, let me give you an equally good, but different gardenia scent – Arquiste Boutonnière no. 7. This one has a recognizable gardenia note, but it’s greener and lighter and woodier, probably the most elegant and refined take on gardenia I’ve encountered. If this is still too attention-grabbing for you, I highly recommend Annick Goutal’s Un Matin d’Orage, a dewy white floral that must be one of the prettiest scents in the world. It is not a straight-up gardenia, but I get a distinct ‘garden-after-rain-with-some-gardenias’ vibe from it.

4. Orange blossom

Orange blossom is the most citrusy of the bunch and as a note, probably my least favourite. But the one orange blossom I adore, I adore with passion. Remember when I just said I don’t like to call perfumes sexy? Well, Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger certainly is, but it’s sunny-sexy compared to Velvet Gardenia’s dangerous-sexy. It has a dose of cumin that for some people reads sweaty, but on me just seems to meld everything together into this fabulous mixture of white petals, sunshine and skin. I feel like a Summer Goddess when wearing this and my bottle is therefore empty. Jo Malone Orange Blossom Cologne centres on the same note, but is much lighter. It is well made, fresh, summery and very enjoyable. Jo Malone is often a good choice if you want to explore different notes, but don’t want to scare anyone. It’s not cheap, but they do small bottles, which is a huge plus.

5. Lily
I think the lily scent of my dreams has not yet been created. If Lys Fume by Tom Ford was smokier, it could be it. Still, it’s a beautiful lily as it is and my current favourite. Lys Fume has a great spicy opening and then turns slightly fruity to my nose – not as in fruit salad, but simply lending the titular flower some roundness and softness; lily can be quite uncompromising on its own. Still, Lys Fume remains pretty heady and you have to like the real life lilies quite a lot to appreciate it. Guerlain’s Lys Soleia from the Aqua Allegoria line, however, is very easy to love. It’s sunny, soft and sweetish, with a touch of ylan-ylang, but it’s not boring. For a good quality lily at a reasonable price point, this one is hard to beat.

Ah, I had to leave out so many great scents that must now go and write a sequel.

7 Comments

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  1. 1
    bardot

    taking a chance that this comment goes through as I typed my name and email blindly (there is no place to show it and hopefully my email won’t come through in the comments section!
    great post and great blog…I love marzipan too 🙂

    • 2
      Ykkinna

      It came through! Just like on NST, the fist time you comment, it needs to be approved, but it should be less painful from now on 🙂 So happy you liked the post and the blog in general.

  2. 3
    Lynley

    Hello! If you saw my post (Perthgirl) over at NST for BWF Friday, you’d know that my over 30 bottles alone of white florals kinda puts me in the ‘love’ category 🙂
    Despite the ridiculous number though, there are still more to be had. Everytime I sniff Tuberose Gardenia I also wonder why I dont own it..
    For lilies- have you tried Soussanne by Keiko Mecheri? The expensive bespoke line.. I havent actually tried Lys Fume so i dont know how they compare, but Soussanne is an oriental, powdery lily. Dark enough to be sexy, smouldering lily.

    • 4
      Ykkinna

      I saw your comment and was duly impressed. Not that I think everybody should own 30 BWFs (or even 3), but when somebody does, I just find it fabulous. Which ones are your favourites? I haven’t tried Soussanne, on the list it goes. I don’t know the line that well and have been a bit disappointed with some recent releases, but I do like Ume and Cuir Cordoba.

  3. 5
    Lynley

    I don’t know how it got to that number, really, seeing as though 5 /6 years ago I HATED white florals with a passion and Fracas made me nauseous… I guess I’ve been making up for lost time 🙂
    Fracas is actually one of my favourites now. One day it just switched from evil to delightful and that was it. Now the more indolic the better. Any tuberose is good with me. Current jasmine favourites are Nasomatto Nuda and Diptyque Olene, orange blossom APOM by MFK and Seville a l’aube, lily is currently lily light with Baiser Volé edp, mixed favourites are Terracotta and Songes. I have to admit I havent really
    found a gardenia that I enjoy even remotely as much as the real thing though..
    KM isnt really a brand on my radar either but I bought the bespoke coffret a few years back and Canyon Dreams and Soussanne are the nicest IMO.
    BTW am very much enjoying your witty and interesting blog- it’s a fun read 🙂

    • 6
      Ykkinna

      Have you tried Velvet Gardenia? To me, it really smells very much like the real thing. Although I do enjoy several gardenias that aren’t very realistic, because I also happen enjoy the note that passes for gardenia in perfumery – Un Matin d’Orage and VC&A Gardenia Petale are both in that category. I’ve only tried the original Mito, so there’s another one for the list. And thank you for your kind words about the blog, it makes me a bit giddy that there are quite a few people whom I don’t personally know, reading my musings. I appreciate your attention very much.

  4. 7
    Lynley

    Oh wait. Current tuberose obsession is Mito voile d’extrait. IFRA can almost be forgiven for killing off some old loves as long as stuff like this keeps appearing 🙂

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